Solo Female Traveler Finds Herself in Mogadishu.

check Out full version her reflection https://www.journeywithjarv.com/somalia By Katelyn Jarvis,Date: July, 2018

It is 4:00 AM in Nairobi, Kenya, and I finally have peace and quiet to process my thoughts. As I push my baggage trolley between terminals at Jomo Kenyatta International Airport, I reflect on how fortunate I am to have experienced the places I have—yet I can’t help but wonder if I have a screw loose.

Three days ago , I was exploring the quiet yet stunning streets of Tripoli, Libya—an empty Mediterranean metropolis untouched by mass tourism. I was nervous about visiting Libya, given its ongoing civil war, yet I found beauty beyond the fear. But now, I was about to embark on an even riskier journey—to Mogadishu, Somalia.

Why Mogadishu? Somaliland was the safer option, a self-governing region with its own currency and government, significantly more stable than “proper” Somalia. But something in me wanted to go beyond the familiar, beyond safety—to see Somalia for what it truly was, not just what it had been through. That is where Sahan Tourism Somalia and Ahmed and his team came into the picture.

Arrival in Mogadishu: Security, Speed, and Surreal Moments

Stepping out of the airport, I was met by a silver Toyota 4-Runner with blacked-out windows, accompanied by a small squad of armed security sitting in the back of a pickup truck. We drove like bats out of hell, knowing that lingering too long could draw unwanted attention. The fortified entrance to Jazeera Palace Hotel, my accommodation, required us to pass through multiple bomb walls, security gates, and heavily armed guards, finally reaching the courtyard—a peaceful oasis amid the chaos.

Exploring Mogadishu: From the Lighthouse to Lido Beach

Unlike many tourists, I was fortunate enough that Ahmed allowed me to walk through the city, taking in its crumbling Italian architecture and imagining its former glory before years of conflict. We wandered to Second Lido Beach, where fishermen hauled in their daily catch, and teenage boys played soccer on the shore.

Then, I convinced Ahmed to let me enter the Mogadishu Lighthouse, though its broken spiral staircase made the climb difficult. My Abaya kept getting caught, and when I tried lifting it for better footing, Ahmed sternly reminded me to cover my legs, a lesson I wouldn’t forget the next day.

As we exited, a crowd of locals had gathered—curious about the foreign visitor. My security team formed a protective circle, quickly ushering me back to the 4-Runner.

From there, we headed down the road to Lido Beach, an infamous location due to past Al-Shabaab attacks, but on this day, it was full of families playing in the sand, swimming, and enjoying life. A man in a suit approached, offering to take me out on a boat—and of course, I said yes!

With Ahmed and my entire security team joining me, we spent fifteen minutes on the water, admiring the crystal-clear waters. I was surprised by how many people were out scuba diving, a reminder of the hidden beauty that exists even in places shaped by conflict.

Back on shore, we settled into a rooftop café, soaking in the salty sea breeze over a cup of coffee, discussing Somalia’s potential for tourism and the resilience of its people.

Reuniting with Abdi at the Ministry of Tourism

It was time for us to reunite with Abdi, so we picked him up from the Ministry of Education and drove to the Ministry of Tourism, which shares a campus with the Somali National Television and Radio Station.

Abdi introduced me to the Minister of Tourism and then gave me a tour of the Radio Station, where a producer decided to do a special segment on tourism returning to Somalia. They recorded my discussion with the Minister, filmed me inside the Radio studio, and later followed Abdi and me to the Peace Park, capturing our conversation.

The Peace Park was a refreshing escape—no guns allowed inside, which meant my security team had to wait outside the gates.

As our conversation wrapped up, we sat outside a fast-food joint, where Abdi invited a group of teenagers to join us. They were eager to practice their English, and one boy bought me chicken nuggets—proving he knew the way to a traveler’s heart!

A Visit to Mogadishu’s Last Standing Cathedral

After the Peace Park, our final stop was the last standing Cathedral in Mogadishu, located inside the Mayor’s compound, requiring special permission to enter.

When we finally gained access, I was awestruck—the Cathedral was both tragic and magnificent, a silent witness to Mogadishu’s past. I spent an hour exploring its halls before the sunset signaled our return to the hotel.

A Night of Laughter and Camaraderie

That evening, Abdi invited me to dinner with his friends in the courtyard. They jokingly commented on my absence of a Hijab, since inside the hotel’s secure walls, it wasn’t required.

We enjoyed watermelon juice and fresh watermelon, a simple yet satisfying meal. I was already full from the camel stew I had for lunch, but the light-hearted conversation made the night special.

Abdi and his friends were hilarious, full of jokes, and I cherished the time spent with them.

Final Reflections: A Country I Will Always Hold Close

As I headed to bed, preparing for my early morning flight to Uganda, I found myself reflecting deeply. Somalia had given me more than I ever expected—stories, friendships, and lessons in resilience, hospitality, and hope.

As I boarded my flight the next morning, I knew Somalia would forever be in my heart. Someday, I hope to return to a Somalia restored, a nation where its people are thriving and its potential fully realized.